LS 1 - 6 Install Instructions

LS 1-6 Install Instructions

We recommend using the Stock (or equivalent) pan gasket, with a light film of silicone for sealant. The stock bolts may also be used.

Dry Sump Pan #1005, #1005M


On Stage I systems, where the stock internal pump is still used for pressure, the special red fitting #6400, with special lip seals is used to form a suction tight seal between the pump and the oil pan, as the supply of oil from the bottom of the dry sump oil tank to the pressure pump.
NOTE: We make two versions of this design, STD and DRC, which is for “Dual Row Chain” usage. If you are using a Dual Row Chain, there are 3mm (.118) spacers, which move the stock pump forward. These pans are identified by “DRC” stamped on pan rail by front inlet. Only Oil Pans with “DRC” (special order) can be used with Dual Row Chain & Pump Spacers.

Windage Tray


We DO NOT recommend using the stock “factory” windage tray. The Aluminum tray & wiper, in you’re A.R.E. Dry Sump Pan is specially designed to work without the steel stock tray. Back-to-Back Dyno tests have shown as much as 8HP LOSS by using both trays.
NOTE: On “Ultra Shallow” #1009 version, the tray mounting extensions on the main cap bolts may also need to be ground off.
-The windage trays are secured to the pan with 10-32 stainless steel screws (1/8” allen) and special wave washers. We assemble the screws with motor oil only. We DO NOT recommend Loctite.
-The A.N. fittings in all ARE Oil Pans are “O” ring seal type. We recommend using motor oil and/or anti seize for sealant. Silicone sealant may also be used if necessary. “O” rings should be replaced occasionally, as needed.
-The scavenge fittings are fitted with stainless steel scavenge filters, integral in the fittings. These should be removed after 1st run, and periodically to check for debris. These also are a good indicator of bearing condition etc.

Plumbing


We recommend using –12 scavenge lines on Stage I systems. (#3120, 3 Stage scavenge use 1 –10 scavenge line from center pick-up in pan to front section of pump. Use –10 pressure lines to filter and back.) Important Scavenge lines should always be as short as possible. Also, avoid lines from forming a “toilet trap” effect by going up higher than the pump, then back down. Keep lines flowing upwardly to pump inlets. In Stage II & III systems using 3 scavenge stages, we use -10 scavenge lines and either –10 or –12 pressure inlet. Supply lines from tank bottom and scavenge return are always –12 (occasionally –16)

Initial Start Up


Prior to running engine for the 1st time, squirt some motor oil down the pump fittings to prime pump. Add 1-2 quarts to the engine itself, and fill the Dry Sump Tank at least ½ full. The supply line to the pressure pump should be loosened until a flow of oil is available at the pump. Check tightness of all lines.

Tank Level


Add oil until the oil level is just AT (NOT ABOVE) the level of the internal deaerater.

 

 

 

 

LS7STG3Inst2

 

 

 

 

 

LS7STG3Inst1

 Plumbing Schematics

External Pressure Pump
4 Stage

 

 

 4 stage are plumbing schematic

 

 

 

 


 

Special 1005 Stock Internal
Pump For Pressure

 

 

 1005 Stock Internal pressure are plumbing schematic for

 

 


 

SPINTRIC® Plumbing Schematic - Incorporating the Spintric

See Notes A through G (below)

 

Spintric AREplumbingSpintric

 

A - DrySump Pump scavenge outlet - Return to Tank - Applies to All Pumps
B - Inlet to Spintric® - Keep Line size the same (A) through (G)
C - Outlet from Spintric® - (De-aerated oil back to tank)
D - Install Oil Cooler Here (Optional)
E - Oil Inlet to Tank - Same as before, from Pump (A)
F - Air Relief from Spintrif to Tank Top
G - Air Relief recommend through deflector fitting PN 6312-SPD

 

LS7 Z06 ARE LS7-LS9 Retro Fit

Installation Instructions
Dry Sump System (Stage lll Shown)
ARE Stage 3 Plumbing
For Stage  System Eliminate #3, 16, 17 & 8

 ls7 ls9retroinstall 2

 

“PATENTED”     MADE IN USA

 

 

 

Connections/Oil Lines as Numbered

1-14     Low Pressure Tank to Catch Can

6-2       -12AN (No. 044) Scavenge Return line from forward side of
sump pan (6) to tank upper inlet (2)

16-3     -12AN (No. 043) Scavenge line from outlet of new scavenge pump (16) to #2 tank inlet (3)

4 & 5   Low pressure (rubber) to Air Bridge (but may decide not to use depending on emissions.  Also Spintric® air inlet to tank.

15-7     -12AN (No. 042) Supply line from bottom of oil tank (15) to rearward inlet (7) on sump pan.  (Supplies Pressure Pump)

8-17     -12AN (No. 045) Sump pan scavenge outlet (8) to new scavenge pump inlet (17). Note: This line may change in the future to -16AN

9-12     -10AN (No. 046) line from sump outlet (9) to remote filter inlet (12)

13        Plugged. Alternative inlet depending on location of filter

18        Plugged or use as an auxiliary outlet for mechanical oil pressure gauge

NOTE: REMOVE FACTORY WINDAGE TRAY BEFORE INSTALLING ARE DRY SUMP PAN

NOTE: LINE NUMBERS ABOVE REFER TO KATECH PRE-MADE LINES AVAILABLE DIRECTLY FROM KATECH- CONTACT JASON@ (586) 791-4120

Above directions are for oil cooler installed in pressure side of system.  This is the preferred way to cool the  LS-7 System providing the factory pressure pump maintains adequate oil pressure. Loss of pressure can sometimes occur due to extra distance & flows of oil through cooler.  The oil cooler may also be installed in scavenge return lines to tank.  ie: 7-2 or 16-3 (stage III)

First oil Filling

The System will hold between 9 and 12 quarts (existing holds 8 quarts)

1.   Do NOT add oil to the tank at time of installation of the pan (as oil will flow into the pan)

2.   Through the red cap on the oil tank, pour say 8 quarts of oil, Add 2 quarts to Engine

3.   Crank the engine (plugs removed) to build up oil pressure

4.   Replace the plugs

5.   Start the engine and allow to warm to operating temperature

6.   Oil Pressure should stabilize around 50 PSI or more

7.   After checking pressure, leaks etc, turn off engine and immediately open the red cap and check the oil level

8.   Add oil until the oil level is just AT (NOT ABOVE) the level of the internal deaerater. (Slots)

NOTE: It is very important that when checking tank oil level (#8 above) that the engine has been run above idle, and shut off when level in tank checked not more than 5 minutes after shutting engine off #7, #8 above.

Pump Mounting Instructions

PUMP MOUNTING INSTRUCTIONS

READ CAREFULLY - PUMP MOUNTING AND DRIVE INSTRUCTIONS FOR INDIVIDUALLY MOUNTED PUMPS

Dry sump pumps are typically driven off the front of the crankshaft using either Gilmer or HTD round tooth belt drives. This positive drive type is needed on any pump except scavenge only pumps, which can e driven with serpentine belts because of the lighter load imposed. Any pump with a pressure stage incorporated should be driven with our "timing type" tooth belts.

The pump is normally driven at between 50 and 65% of crank speed. This is achieved by using a smaller gear on the crank and larger on the pump. The drive gear is mounted to our drive mandrel which bolts to all ATI dampers, or other crank pulleys can be machined to accept this drive also.

Unless you purchased one of our pre determined pump mounts to suit your engine, we will need to have the CENTER TO CENTER MEASUREMENT FROM CRANKSHAFT CENTER TO OIL PUMP SHAFT CENTER once you have mounted the pump to your block where you see fit, and clearance to suit your race car engine compartment. This can be done using our "universal pump mount" #3290. This pre drilled and tapped plate accepts all ARE side mount pumps, both 3 and 4 stage. The plate can then be drilled to mount to suitable bosses on your block, on whichever side of the engine you choose.

After this is done, the CENTER TO CENTER measurement dimension mentioned above will be used for us to give you the BEST COMBINATION OF DRIVE PULLEYS AND BELT for your engine and pump location.

ARE is happy to help you achieve this optimum pump drive combination by supplying us the above information after you have installed, or determined the exact location of your pump. NOTE: FINE TUNING OF BELT TENSION is achieved by installing SAE or precision flat washers in between the pump mount pedestals and the mount plate. An EQUAL amount of washers, of course, must be used under each pump pedestal.

BELT TENSION: The timing type drive belt, when all tightened down, should be "taught" not loose, but also not like a rubber band. There should be approximately 1/8" movement in up and down direction on the slack side of the belt. Some engine builders say the belt should be able to twist by hand, 90°. However, you choose to determine belt tension, keep in mind that at no time should be belt be allowed to "jump teeth." This will result in a worn out belt very quickly. While this drive method is virtually "bullet proof", a spare belt should always be carried with you.

Gary Armstrong Copyright © 2013

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Contact

Gary Armstrong: info[at]drysump.com

Shop: +1 (916) 652-5282

Fax: +1 (916) 652-6041

 

Business Hours

  • Monday-Thursday: 9am to 5pm (Pacific Standard Time)
  • Friday: By Appointment
  • Saturday & Sunday: Closed

 

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