ARE Drive Components
ARE 3 Bolt on Drive Mandrels
PUMP MOUNTING INSTRUCTIONS
READ CAREFULLY - PUMP MOUNTING AND DRIVE INSTRUCTIONS FOR INDIVIDUALLY MOUNTED PUMPS
Dry sump pumps are typically driven off the front of the crankshaft using either Gilmer or HTD round tooth belt drives. This positive drive type is needed on any pump except scavenge only pumps, which can e driven with serpentine belts because of the lighter load imposed. Any pump with a pressure stage incorporated should be driven with our "timing type" tooth belts.
The pump is normally driven at between 50 and 65% of crank speed. This is achieved by using a smaller gear on the crank and larger on the pump. The drive gear is mounted to our drive mandrel which bolts to all ATI dampers, or other crank pulleys can be machined to accept this drive also.
Unless you purchased one of our pre determined pump mounts to suit your engine, we will need to have the CENTER TO CENTER MEASUREMENT FROM CRANKSHAFT CENTER TO OIL PUMP SHAFT CENTER once you have mounted the pump to your block where you see fit, and clearance to suit your race car engine compartment. This can be done using our "universal pump mount" #3290. This pre drilled and tapped plate accepts all ARE side mount pumps, both 3 and 4 stage. The plate can then be drilled to mount to suitable bosses on your block, on whichever side of the engine you choose.
After this is done, the CENTER TO CENTER measurement dimension mentioned above will be used for us to give you the BEST COMBINATION OF DRIVE PULLEYS AND BELT for your engine and pump location.
ARE is happy to help you achieve this optimum pump drive combination by supplying us the above information after you have installed, or determined the exact location of your pump. NOTE: FINE TUNING OF BELT TENSION is achieved by installing SAE or precision flat washers in between the pump mount pedestals and the mount plate. An EQUAL amount of washers, of course, must be used under each pump pedestal.
BELT TENSION: The timing type drive belt, when all tightened down, should be "taught" not loose, but also not like a rubber band. There should be approximately 1/8" movement in up and down direction on the slack side of the belt. Some engine builders say the belt should be able to twist by hand, 90°. However, you choose to determine belt tension, keep in mind that at no time should be belt be allowed to "jump teeth." This will result in a worn out belt very quickly. While this drive method is virtually "bullet proof", a spare belt should always be carried with you.
Gary Armstrong Copyright © 2013